Whether it was our parents telling us that it was ‘lights out’ time, or healthcare professionals informing us to make sure that we’re getting our ‘seven to nine hours’, we’ve all heard about the importance of sleep from someone. The question is – aside from helping our bodies to function on a daily basis, is there such a thing as ‘beauty sleep’ when it comes to our skin and, if so, how do we use it to our advantage?
Let’s start this blog post with a fact – for the duration of time that you’re awake, one of your skin’s foremost concerns is to protect itself, while the hours you spend sleeping are the hours that it uses to conduct repairs. When deprived of this crucial ‘rest’ window, even by an hour or two, this can put your skin under additional and unnecessary stress, which can negatively affect both its appearance and its functions.
When trying to understand how our skin responds to sleep, we must first look at our internal body clock, otherwise known as our ‘circadian rhythm’. Most of the cells in our body contain their own ‘clocks’ (i.e. autonomous clocks), meaning that they can measure time as a means of regulating themselves. Our sleep-wake cycle goes hand-in-hand with our cellular rhythms, with the time we spend sleeping being a crucial part in how our skin handles and safeguards itself against stressors. These include, but are not limited to: oxidative stress, damage to our DNA, hormone imbalances and inflammation. If our cells are unable to effectively repair themselves, this puts additional and unnecessary stress on our skin (and body), which can negatively affect the aging process.
One such example of how sleep affects our skin is how it influences our hormones. During the night, the production of several hormones (HGH, otherwise known as human growth hormone, and melatonin) are elevated whereas our cortisol levels are reduced. HGH and melatonin are reported to contribute to the process of dermal regeneration. Cortisol, on the other hand, commonly recognized as our ‘fight-or-flight’ hormone, is one that is known to be produced when we’re under stress. Although beneficial in small quantities, an influx of cortisol has been said to be detrimental to our skin, and contributes to the formation of wrinkles, a reduction in elasticity and dermal barrier function, not to mention thinner skin. When we sleep, melatonin is a great equalizer and helps to keep our cortisol levels in check since these two hormones have something very much akin to a yin-yang relationship — when the levels of one rises, the other falls.
The way melatonin works in relation to our skin health is quite fascinating. Although primarily used in supplements to promote a restful night, melatonin is, as we mentioned above, produced by our bodies naturally and is pivotal to dermal repair. The reason behind this stems from the antioxidant enzymes that our body produces to ward off the effects of any free radicals that we come into contact with on a daily basis. Melatonin encourages the creation of said enzymes, which benefits our skin due to the fact that they are, in their own right, said to be more potent than the antioxidant effects gained from the vitamin powerhouses C and E. Providing potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties itself, melatonin acts like a free radical hunter, scavenging harmful reactive nitrogen and oxygen species, thereby helping to protect our skin against tissue damage. It primarily originates from a small organ called the pineal gland which responds to darkness, which is why getting your 7 – 9 hours is so vital to its function and, by extension, the health of your skin.
Continuing the theme of regulation, getting some quality shut-eye isn’t just about balancing hormones; other dermal mechanisms need it just as much. During REM sleep, both your circulation and heart rate naturally increase. Boosted blood flow is heavily associated with the activity of collagen restoration in your skin, in addition to assisting with the task of healing any damage that took place during the day, most notably from UV exposure. These processes contribute to softening the appearance of age-related imperfections like hyperpigmentation and wrinkles, building an even more solid case for catching some Z’s.
If you’re into skincare, it may surprise you to learn that it’s not just your internal workings that change during the night, but your skin itself, and this can affect how it reacts to the application of certain products. Going back to what we said about your cells possessing their own ‘clock’, your skin has been found to have a circadian biorhythm of its own, which is not surprising given that it’s your body’s largest organ. Your dermal biorhythm is responsible for governing many of its underlying mechanisms. When we sleep, our skin’s acidity and temperature levels rise, which means that it not only becomes slightly drier in texture but also more permeable. Although this deems nighttime the most opportune time for applying heavier, more moisturizing products, those of you whose skin doesn’t respond well to such products can use this window just as constructively. If you have dry or mature skin, make sure to leave your most hydrating and heavyweight products for your bedtime routine for optimum results. If you have skin that’s on the oilier side, opt instead for a lightly hydrating approach with skincare that’s non-comedogenic and will sink in easily, such as products that rely on dry oils or those that are water based. Suitable for all skin types, bakuchiol is a great ingredient to invest in if you’re looking for something with an anti-aging kick that won’t thin your skin or dry it out. It’s not only gentle, but highly beneficial due to its ability to boost both cell turnover and collagen production, thereby further lending a hand in your nightly dermal repair process, which is a win-win.
Of course, upping your hydration at night doesn’t mean you have to construct an elaborate skincare routine for yourself (unless you want to, of course). Choosing a handful of nourishing products that deliver what your skin needs at night can be a very helpful thing to do in the long-run. Even if you don’t already suffer from dry skin, lacking quality sleep can actually promote it, which is something none of us want. If you’re cheating yourself out of those much-needed hours, this can not only trigger dryness and flaking, but also impairment to your dermal barrier, not to mention inflammation. Visually, this means you could be lining yourself up for dermal redness, dark circles, a washed-out complexion and a puffy eye area. Products with hyaluronic acid are great for tackling this, as are those that incorporate aloe vera (which is very cooling and anti-inflammatory), and ceramides (which can help to strengthen and restore your skin barrier). Aside from skincare, another thing you could do is treat yourself to a silk pillowcase. Not only do they create less friction against your face as you move during the night, but silk is an antibacterial and hypoallergenic fabric, which means that it doesn’t absorb as much dermal grime and moisture as a normal cotton pillowcase would, thus helping to prevent breakouts even while you sleep.
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