It’s a well known fact that everybody’s skin sheds cells of its own accord on a daily basis. However, as we get older, this natural activity has been known to decrease in frequency, and in some cases, grinds to a halt altogether. The result of this is a dull-looking complexion, which may extend to flakiness, uneven skin tone, enlarged and/or clogged pores, dryness and more noticeable fine lines and wrinkles. This is where exfoliants come in to lend a helping hand.
Two of the most common acids used in exfoliating products are AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids).
AHAs. Starting with AHAs, these are water soluble acids extracted from sugary fruit, sugarcane or milk, and are designed to exfoliate your skin’s surface layers. When applied, AHAs are designed to kick-start the exfoliation activity of the skin cells (more specifically, the epidermal cells) that reside in the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer). By disrupting these cells’ ionic bonding, AHAs encourage the process of cellular renewal by breaking these dead skin cells apart to make way for new cells to take their place underneath. Of course, alpha hydroxy acids’ dermal improvements don’t stop there – they have been found to elevate moisture levels by boosting the production of hyaluronic acid, prompting collagen synthesis and making age-related imperfections less prominent, from age spots to wrinkles.
The effect of AHAs is usually a subtle one, so don’t expect to see your skin shedding lots of cells at once – it’s meant to be a gentle and gradual process. As such, one thing you will be slowly made aware of is your skin beginning to take on a smoother, more even texture with less noticeable lines and wrinkles. Some of the most used AHAs you might recognize from skincare products are:
- Lactic acid (made from lactose, recognized for its anti-aging and exfoliating abilities)
- Tartaric acid (sourced from grape extracts, mainly used to offset the effects of acne and sun damage)
- Citric acid (derived from citrus fruit extracts, employed to balance out pH levels of the skin, tone and improve the complexion by reducing rough skin patches)
- Malic acid (extracted from apple acids, described as a combination of both AHAs and BHAs in ability, and is more powerful when used in conjunction with other acids)
- Mandelic acid (harvested from almond extracts, utilized to reduce pore size and enhance skin texture. It’s even more effective when mixed with other AHAs to boost overall exfoliation effects)
BHAs. Turning our attention to BHAs, beta hydroxy acids are those that are plant-derived, namely from willow tree bark, sweet birch bark or wintergreen leaves. They are oil soluble and, in contrast to AHAs, are able to delve a little deeper than the skin’s surface layer, making them very suitable for skin that’s prone to oiliness or acne. To elaborate on this, the reason why they’re so effective is that they can break down keratin plugs and positively attune the process of keratinization (cell turnover). When too much sebum is produced or the skin sheds too quickly (i.e. hyperkeratinization), pores tend to become clogged and acne can result. By dissolving such debris, BHAs can help to decrease the rate at which these processes happen, which goes towards improved skin function and, by extension, a better complexion. BHAs you may be familiar with include:
- Salicylic acid (the active, metabolized form of salicin, extracted from willow bark. Though it initially came from a natural source, it’s often biosynthesized for general use in the skincare industry. This is not only the most well-recognized BHA, but also the strongest, and is used to combat blemishes, acne, redness and regulate sebum production)
- Willow bark extract/salix alba (this is what salicylic acid is derived from. When assimilated by the body, it’s converted into salicylic acid. As such, it’s often used as a much milder alternative to salicylic acid, and is hailed for its powerful anti-inflammatory and antibacterial qualities. Its uses include unclogging pores, calming irritation and treating acne)
- Betaine salicylate (harvested from sugar beets and, like willow bark extract, it’s sometimes used as a gentler stand-in for salicylic acid. Its main uses extend from enhancing skin texture and tone by dissolving sebum and keratin, effectively purging pores and resurfacing the skin)
Similarities. Though it might not be apparent at first, AHAs and BHAs do share some similarities. Both types of acid are, first and foremost, humectants which means that they attract water molecules, thereby helping your dermal layers to preserve moisture. They are also an impressive force when it comes to evening out dermal pigmentation, softening the visibility of wrinkles, intercepting the formation of mild acne and encouraging dermal firmness by helping to elevate the dermis’ collagen density levels. The main reason why they’re such popular skincare routine additions is that, besides their decongesting and wrinkle-fading abilities, they can aid in brightening the complexion. By stimulating your stratum corneum’s exfoliation process and thus breaking up the surface layer of dead skin cells, both types of acid have a naturally thinning effect on the skin. When fresh skin cells emerge, they also tend to reflect light more evenly, giving the skin a radiant look.
Differences. Turning our attention to what differentiates these acids from one another, the main dividers are their solubility, molecule size, effect on pores, sebum production, photosensitivity, irritation risks and concentration.
As we mentioned above, the solubility of AHAs and BHAs differs in that AHAs are water soluble whereas BHAs are oil soluble, with AHAs zoning in on the skin’s surface layers and BHAs honing in on both the foremost layers while also purifying pores on a deeper level. As well as being highly beneficial, these aspects further tap into how these acids work – AHAs focus mainly on hydration and collagen synthesis while BHAs tap into breakout prevention by reducing sebum production, not to mention shrinking pores.
This leads us onto molecule size. Though it might not be obvious, molecule size actually dictates how both AHAs and BHAs behave on the skin. Put into context, BHAs are generally made up of larger molecules in comparison to AHAs, which gives the added benefit of making them less aggravating to the skin. Despite being touted as suitable for all skin types, AHAs have been known to pose the risk of irritation for anyone who’s predisposed to sensitivity or dryness. Since BHAs are marketed as being suitable for sun damaged and problem skin, they are said to be a little gentler, especially on skin types that are susceptible to sensitivity and inflammatory conditions like acne and rosacea.
Protect your skin. Whether you choose to do it manually or via a skincare product, any act of exfoliation is known to make the skin a prime target for sun damage and dermal sensitivity. Regardless if your exfoliation product is meant to be left on or rinsed off, always ensure that you apply sunscreen if you’re going to be in direct contact with sunlight. AHAs are notorious for their role in dermal sensitivity whereas some BHAs have been discovered to contain photoprotective qualities. However, due to the fact that more clinical trials need to take place to further investigate these claims, it’s always wise to make SPF part of your exfoliation aftercare.
Concentration. If you’re looking to invest in a product containing an AHA or BHA, it’s vital to take their concentration into account. To ensure that they’re successful in their exfoliating mission, it’s stated that AHAs need to be around the concentration benchmark of 8%. Because they’re stronger, BHAs merely require their potency to be around 2% to work, though concentrations of 0.5% are available.
Should you combine them? Whether it’s good practice to combine your AHA and BHA products has been the subject of discussion amongst many dermatologists, with many differing opinions. However, the answer that features most often is: yes, you can switch up your routine by combining the effects of both these acids, but it’s not necessary and it doesn’t work for all skin types. The reason for this is that certain ingredients exist that are able to marry the effects of AHAs and BHAs in terms of effectiveness, rendering the blend of two separate products fairly redundant. Put into context, the BHA salicylic acid, for example, is capable of equalling the effects of AHAs in terms of effectiveness while also bringing the benefits of BHAs into the mix. Of course, if salicylic acid doesn’t agree with you or you’d prefer to incorporate AHAs and BHAs, there are ways to benefit from both. Since AHAs and BHAs are potent in their own right due to them being exfoliating products, one thing that’s not recommended is to layer them one on top of the other, since this can prove to be too intense an experience for your already delicate skin. Instead, try applying them to different regions of your face. If you have combination skin, you’re in the prime position to take full advantage – apply your BHA to areas suffering from excess oil (i.e. your T-zone) and your AHA to the other regions of your face. Alternatively, you could stagger their applications – apply an AHA one day and a BHA the next.
Warning. Though exfoliation is a beneficial practice to indulge in from time to time, always make sure not to overdo it. Too much exfoliation can cause the skin to show various signs of distress. These may include: a waxy texture, inflammation, peeling, irritation or a burning sensation. A good guideline to follow is to exfoliate no more than once per week, otherwise you’re leaving your skin open to UV damage (especially if you don’t wear sunscreen) and aggravation since you’re disturbing and impairing the skin barrier too frequently, thereby not giving it enough time to repair itself in between sessions.
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