It’s a biological fact that everyone’s skin is pigmented at varying degrees, which is an attribute that’s determined by melanin – a complex polymer that our bodies produce naturally. The general rule of thumb is, the higher the concentration of melanin, the darker the skin appears. In contrast to normal pigmentation, hyperpigmentation refers to areas of the skin displaying an uneven distribution of pigmentation, resulting in dark patches which are commonly referred to as ‘age spots’. This occurs when the skin produces an excess of melanin, which settles within the deeper layers of the skin, creating a contrast to the lighter distribution of pigmentation around it. The visible extent of hyperpigmentation is usually fairly minimal, but in extremely unusual cases, it can affect the whole body.
Hyperpigmentation is quite common, with varying factors known to cause or exacerbate it. Sun damage, blue light exposure and pollution are among the most prevalent triggers due to the inevitability of encountering UV, the light from our digital screens and pollution on a daily basis. This is closely followed by the common use of oral contraceptives, pregnancy, and conditions that affect the body like Addison’s disease, the latter of which is known to heighten the production of ACTH (i.e adrenocorticotrophic hormone), which directly affects your melanocyte cells by prompting them to create melanin and therefore visibly dark patches of skin.
Some of the lesser acknowledged ties to the appearance of hyperpigmentation are factors like blemishes and/or acne, and even stress levels. While post acne and blemish marks speak for themselves in terms of leaving blotches of pigmentation in their wake, stress is a very common but often overlooked cause of dermal inflammation, which has been known to encourage the production of excess pigment in itself. This results in darker patches of skin appearing which, although known to fade over time, can take years to do so which can be a great source of frustration for many.
Although hyperpigmentation can be a tricky beast to tame entirely, the positive take away from it is that its commonality means that there are many avenues to venture down in order to discover your perfect treatment. Aside from the obvious tricks you can do to avoid hyperpigmentation via sun damage such as wearing a hat and using SPF products, some of the most popular weapons in your skincare arsenal are as follows: vitamin C, niacinamide, bakuchiol, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and carrot seed oil.
Vitamin C is, without doubt, a tried and true best friend to your skin, not just for its role in collagen production but also for its ability to naturally lighten the skin. It works by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase that helps your skin to produce melanin by oxidizing the amino acid tyrosine. Blocking tyrosinase helps to visibly brighten the skin while vitamin C’s antioxidant properties help to safeguard your skin cells from sustaining additional damage caused by free radicals resulting from pollution or sun exposure.
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. Although you can read more about it in our blog post What Is Niacinamide?, the summary of its benefits extend from neutralizing free radicals and calming inflammation to lightening dermal discoloration by blocking the transfer of melanosome (i.e. granules of pigment, which are themselves organelles) from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This helps to lighten patches of hyperpigmentation and therefore lessen their visibility.
Bakuchiol oil is not just retinol’s equal when it comes to visibly turning back the years, but it’s anti-inflammatory, goes towards protecting your skin against UV, and is a potent adversary to hyperpigmentation. Unlike retinol, bakuchiol oil is non-drying and doesn’t thin the skin. Its antioxidant properties have demonstrated their ability at fending off oxidative stress and diminishing the areas of skin affected by excess pigmentation by inhibiting the production of melanin. You can read more about bakuchiol oil in our blog post Why Bakuchiol Is The New Retinol.
Kojic acid is typically derived from a selection of fungi or fermented rice and, like vitamin C, it helps to impede tyrosinase enzymes. Although this ingredient is more of a slow-burn in terms of results, it has been shown to pay off. However, those with sensitive skin should use it in small amounts to avoid the risk of experiencing any dermal irritation, since despite its low concentrations in skincare products, it can aggravate some people’s skin.
Tranexamic acid, or simply TA, is an anti-inflammatory, non-exfoliating acid. It’s a synthetic product derived from lysine, an amino acid. It lessens hyperpigmentation by helping to inhibit melanin production that’s been triggered by UV exposure. Some dermatologists recommend pairing it with similar products in your skincare routine, such as those we mentioned above: vitamin C and kojic acid.
Carrot seed oil contains beta-carotene, which serves as a precursor to vitamin A – a nutrient that our bodies assimilate into said vitamin. Its antioxidant qualities are extremely beneficial when it comes to fighting off UV damage and promoting cellular regeneration, i.e. skin cell turnover.
If you’re looking for a little extra help, opting to include a selection of fruits and vegetables into your diet that are rich in vitamins and antioxidants have been proven to aid the health of your skin from the inside out. Fruits such as oranges, cherries, papaya, avocado and grapes alongside vegetables like broccoli, red bell peppers and carrots are exalted within the skincare community due to them being packed with not just vital nutrients for your body, but antioxidants to boost the health of your skin. If you’d like to read all about the most beneficial skin foods, visit our Diet page for more information.
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