Retinol, more commonly known as vitamin A’s pure form, is an antioxidant used in many anti-aging skincare products. Unlike vitamins D and K, vitamin A is not naturally produced by the body and, as such, we must seek it out from external sources in order to use its benefits to our skin’s advantage.
Aside from being employed as an ingredient in the skincare world, retinol can be naturally sourced via certain foods. Though vitamin A is traditionally found in a variety of animal-derived products like eggs, fish, chicken liver and beef, it can also be obtained from plants. Vegetables including carrots, sweet potatoes, squash and pumpkin as well as fruit like cantaloupe all contain it. When ingested, vitamin A is transformed into both retinoic acid and retinal by the body. These active components are what make vitamin A so effective when eaten. So, that being said, what are its main strengths when used in the skincare industry as the ingredient we’ve all come to know as retinol?
It’s no secret that retinol has many upsides when applied topically. Due to its antioxidant properties, retinol is purported to be a valuable asset in helping to soften the visibility of wrinkles as well as treating skin prone to acne, discoloration, eczema and even breakouts. It also lends a hand in impeding free radical damage that stems from UV exposure. Despite this, retinol can have its downsides as well. Firstly, it is not safe to use during pregnancy, and high doses are known to cause dry skin, an enlarged liver and even hypervitaminosis A (a toxic reaction to a high dose of vitamin A, which can affect your bones and even your body’s metabolism of other such fat-soluble vitamins). Don’t let this put you off retinol, though – these effects take place in the worst case scenario and, unless you plan on applying your entire pot of retinol cream in one go, they’re not likely to happen. However, it goes without saying that being aware of retinol’s side effects and checking the dosage on the products that you buy is always a helpful thing to do for you and your skin. Just be aware – those with sensitive skin can find retinol to be an irritant so, if you suffer from dermal sensitivity, it’s recommended that you seek out products that contain a more diluted dose of retinol or a retinol equivalent. If in doubt, always do a patch test to check for any unwanted reactions.
When incorporated into skincare products, retinol’s primary objective is to trigger skin cell turnover. Skin cell turnover is the process during which dead and dry skin cells are discarded in lieu of new skin cells, which leaves the skin looking brighter and more refreshed. By increasing skin cell turnover rate, retinol is also multitasking by helping to promote collagen production and dermal elasticity. The culmination of these effects is younger-looking skin with an absence or reduction of the skin conditions we mentioned above.
Because this ingredient behaves like an exfoliator, it’s not best practice to use retinol products in tandem with other exfoliators or skin peels since this combination is associated with increased dermal sensitivity which can, in turn, make you more susceptible to sun damage for a duration of time.
So, you’ve heard about retinol, but what about retinoids? Retinoids are a blanket term for derivatives of vitamin A. Retinol and retinoids are often thought to be the same thing when in fact, though similar, one is not a substitute for the other. Retinol is available to purchase in OTC skincare products while retinoids are almost always bought via prescription due to their potency (an aspect attributed to their active ingredient being much richer). In other words, retinol’s reaction generally needs longer to take effect in contrast to retinoids, which work faster due to their strength. This difference is due to retinol’s molecular structure, which takes longer to be transformed into retinoic acid – an active metabolite (an active metabolite is the result of what happens when the body metabolizes and modifies a substance that proceeds to generate effects after being assimilated. For example, retinoic acid goes on to fight wrinkles after being metabolized by the body).
People in their mid 20s and early 30s are encouraged to start using retinol as it’s not necessary to apply heavy-duty products with retinoids to skin that’s so young. Retinol is a good way to beat the early signs of aging since collagen begins to decrease its natural production around this time. It’s great for targeting any crows feet, sun spots and fine lines that may start to materialise hence. Because of retinol’s reputation as a potential irritant, it’s recommended to use formulas with a low dosage (around 0.01% – 0.03%) and gradually start to work it into your routine so your skin has time to acclimatize. It’s not uncommon to experience slight discomfort when initially introducing your skin to retinol. These effects can manifest in various ways from patches of dryness, sensitivity to the sun and even some moderate irritation. However, if you experience any side effects like a burning sensation, acute flaking and red areas, stop using retinol with immediate effect. If you suffer from dermal conditions like eczema, rosacea or are prone to sensitivity, it’s best to avoid retinol altogether since, even in mild formulations, it can inflame these conditions further. Though both retinol and retinoids take time to work, retinol can take from anywhere up to 12 weeks to work, whereas retinoids can be capable of only taking as little as 2 weeks to take effect. Results can vary, however, so do take this into account. For best results, use your retinoid and retinol-based products at night. This is because sunlight is known to act as a deactivator towards retinoic acid, so it’s ideal to use your products when not in direct exposure to the sun.
It’s worth noting that, though the majority of retinol and retinoids are derived from natural sources, there are synthetic variants. This can vary by brand or by the audience at which they are targeted, so it’s good to be aware of this if it’s a concern to you.
When applying a product containing retinol, don’t forget to include your décolletage and neck since these are two prime areas that are frequently neglected, and they never should be! These regions have delicate skin and, as a result, they’re prone to showing signs of aging, just as your face and hands do. A useful tip to bear in mind is that, since these areas can show sensitivity to retinol enriched products, a small amount of a moisturizer that’s infused with ceramides can help to offset any unwanted effects and calm the skin. Alternatively, there are many anti-aging, retinol-containing products available that are designed to target specific areas of the body. Such products usually sport a lower concentration of this vitamin A derivative, which is typically combined with other ingredients designed to calm the skin, which can be incredibly useful assets to your routine.
If you’d like to read more about the topics discussed in this article such as antioxidants and collagen, check out our related articles: What Are Antioxidants? and What Is Collagen?