If you’re not quite sure what a serum is, you are most definitely not alone. With so many products being recommended by dermatologists, it’s very easy to get lost in the anti-aging maelstrom. If you haven’t already been acquainted, a serum is a type of product often used in skincare routines as an extra step that takes place prior to moisturization but after cleansing. Lightweight in texture, serums are designed with the purpose of delivering a concentrated dose of nourishing (and often active) ingredients to the skin in order to help tackle various dermal concerns from dryness, sensitivity, dullness and age-related imperfections like fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration, among others. Their effectiveness, according to dermatologists, interestingly comes down to molecule size. Serums are typically constructed of small molecules, which are what enables them to delve so deeply into your dermal layers. This is the very reason why they pair so well with moisturizers, which work at a surface level due to their larger molecule size, acting more like dermal sealants to prevent hydration loss. When used together, a serum can magnify and prolong the effects of a moisturizer, which doubles to provide both a protective barrier and deep-seated hydration. This is why, though not a mandatory part of your skincare routine, serums can make such a great dermal investment.
Aside from their diverse intents and purposes, a detail that can make serums such a confusing aspect of skincare is the fact that they come in such a variety of textures. Oil-based serums are one of the most popular types, followed by those that are water and/or gel based. When applying serums, this nugget of information is useful to know since it determines where they should feature in your routine. A good rule of thumb when it comes to skincare products is to apply your lightest formulas first, building up towards the heaviest. Because oil molecules are larger in size, oil-based serums are often applied after moisturizer because they’re more ‘heavy duty’ in nature. Water-based types (including gels), on the other hand, have a lighter consistency which makes them ideal to be applied prior to moisturizer, acting like a base to build on. Also, because of their watery base, they make a great vessel for water-soluble botanical extracts (i.e. hydrophilic extracts), which are very beneficial to the skin.
Now that we’ve covered why serums are so effective, you may still be left wondering why you should invest in one. Besides their moisturizing capabilities, there is still much more to them than meets the eye. Though a lot of us commonly associate this type of product with those who have mature skin, it’s actually recommended to start using a serum as early as your 20s, more specifically from age 25 onwards, as this is when a lot of your skin’s functions begin to decline (i.e. collagen and elastin production as well as natural hydration loss). Even if you don’t already suffer from dryness, the moisture levels of your skin do gradually decrease with age, and this may be accompanied by the appearance of age spots, a dull complexion and, lastly, wrinkles. Though all of these age-related aspects happen gradually, using a combination of nourishing products early on has been reported to slow such activity down, which means holding onto your youthful looks for longer. It also goes without saying that, aside from helping to visibly revitalize the face, serums can do a great many things. Depending on which ingredients they contain, their abilities can help to ward off UV and blue light damage and even the effects of pollution, which have all been proven to be very taxing to the skin.
Of course, when looking for the right ingredients for your skin, not all are created equal. Below, we’ve listed some of the best options for each skin type, and which ingredients to avoid
In summary, if you have…
Oily skin… opt for serums that contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, since it leaves very little residue behind. Salicylic acid, lactic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide and glycerin are also good choices. Steer clear of products that are heavy or oil-based (unless they’re confirmed to be non-comedogenic), since these can prove to be too much for skin that’s already struggling with congestion.
Dry skin… choose formulas that include ceramides, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid to soothe, plump and hydrate. Moisturizing oils like olive or coconut are also extremely beneficial, providing your skin is receptive to them. If these are too heavy duty, try argan instead. Stay away from products that contain alcohol or salicylic acid since these can be very drying and thus cause irritation.
Combination skin… invest in serums with non-comedogenic oils, peptides, vitamin C, ylang ylang, tea tree, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and cucumber. Give a wide berth to alcohol, mineral oils, lanolin, synthetic fragrance, comedogenic oils and those high in oleic acid.
Sensitive skin… go for products with squalene, soybean seed extract, lactic, glycolic and hyaluronic acids, ceramides, antioxidants and peptides. Avoid alcohol, salicylic acid and citric acid to minimize the risk of irritation and dryness.
Mature skin… find serums with vitamin C, retinol (or bakuchiol), these acids: hyaluronic, glycolic and lactic, non-comedogenic oils such as rosehip, jojoba and pomegranate, antioxidants, coenzyme Q10, grape seed and tea extracts. Avoid serums with alcohol, synthetic fragrance and salicylic acid. Do note – while a little salicylic acid is a good thing, a product that depends too much on it can prove to be very drying to the skin.
Acne-prone skin… try niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid, zinc and retinol (or bakuchiol). These will help to moisturize and soothe while improving the look of your complexion. Steer clear of alcohol, mineral oils, synthetic fragrance, silicones and comedogenic oils.
Because they’re so versatile, serums have many upsides, but they do tend to fall on the pricier end of the skincare scale due to their concentrated mix of ingredients. Of course, price doesn’t always determine quality, but serums are made with the intention of providing a more ‘hands on’, targeted approach to skincare. To reiterate what we said above, serums aren’t necessary, but they can help other products to pull their weight and are therefore a great help to anyone whose skin is struggling and needs an extra dose of TLC.
Final tips time. Once you’ve found your serum, always make sure to store it in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight (especially if the bottle isn’t UV protected) to ensure its longevity. Most serums are expected to last from anywhere between six months to a year, but this can vary by brand. Remember to not apply any serum too liberally. Especially if you have problematic or sensitive skin, a potent product like this can prove to be aggravating to the skin when too much is applied. Be sparing with it, and treat your face kindly. Last but not least, don’t forget to include your neck!
If you’d like to read more about your skin type, visit our Skin Types page for more information. If you want to read up on carrier, facial and essential oils, visit our DIY Skincare section where we detail the benefits of each oil on our list, and which skin type it’s best suited to. If you’re interested in browsing the cruelty free skincare that we feature, visit our Women’s Skincare Brands and Men’s Skincare Brands respectively.